The Hidden Health Hazard of Synthetic Braiding Hair: A Crisis Black Women Can No Longer Ignore

By Olamide Sonuga

For Black women, hair is more than just strands—it is identity, culture, and history. Yet, at every turn, it has also been a battleground.

Wearing our natural curls and coils invites judgment, discrimination, and the stigma of being “unprofessional”—so much so that the CROWN Act had to be passed to protect us in workplaces and schools. But now, with the growing backlash against Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion (DEI) initiatives, even these hard-won protections may be at risk. As DEI programs face repeal and defunding, implicit biases against natural Black hair could deepen, making legislative safeguards more critical than ever.

Now, as we turn to synthetic braiding hair—a protective style meant to nurture our natural hair—we face yet another threat. Many of these products contain toxic chemicals linked to cancer, reproductive harm, and developmental disorders, forcing Black women to once again weigh beauty against their health and well being.

The Toxic Truth Behind Synthetic Braiding Hair

Braided styles using synthetic hair have long been a staple for Black women, offering ease of maintenance and a way to navigate a world that often polices our hair. But the very fibers of the synthetic hair woven into our scalps may be compromising our health.

Synthetic braiding hair dates back to 1957 when Kanekalon, a fiber developed by the Kaneka Corporation, was introduced in the U.S. This material is made from modacrylic fiber, a copolymer containing vinyl chloride and acrylonitrile. Vinyl chloride, commonly found in PVC pipes, furniture, and car parts, has been linked to leukemia, lymphoma, and rare cancers of the liver, brain, and lungs. Acrylonitrile is classified by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as a probable human carcinogen, raising serious health concerns about the long-term safety of synthetic hair.

A 2023 study by Chrystal Thomas sounded the alarm on the lack of regulation and research surrounding synthetic hair products. Following the study’s release, Consumer Reports tested synthetic hair from 10 of the most frequently purchased synthetic braiding hair brands, revealing disturbing results:

• 9 out of 10 brands contained dangerously high levels of lead, a neurotoxin linked to reproductive harm, kidney damage, and developmental issues in children.
• High concentrations of volatile organic compounds (VOCs), including benzene (a known carcinogen) and acetone, were detected.
• VOCs were released in high amounts when synthetic hair was dipped in hot water—a standard practice in braiding to set styles and smooth the hair.
• Braiders who handle synthetic hair daily are unknowingly exposed to chronic toxic chemical exposure in their workplaces.

This is not an isolated issue. Hair care products marketed to Black women have a long history of containing harmful chemicals. A 2018 study published in Environmental Research found that endocrine-disrupting chemicals (EDCs) and asthma-associated chemicals were present in commonly used products like leave-in conditioners, hot oil treatments, hair lotions, and relaxers.

Additionally, the chronic use of chemical hair relaxers has been linked to uterine cancer, sparking widespread lawsuits and product recalls. 

Black Women Shouldn’t Have to Choose Between Beauty and Health

How can the very existence of a Black woman not feel exhausting when every choice we make about our hair, whether it be natural or with the use of extensions, is met with societal and health consequences?

The fight for hair justice is far from over. If we had to fight to wear our natural hair without facing discrimination, we must now fight for the right to wear synthetic styles without sacrificing our health.

Legislation is starting to catch up. California’s SB 236, introduced by Senator Weber Pierson, is a crucial step in banning toxic substances in chemical hair relaxers—but it’s not enough. The bill must expand to include synthetic hair and other cosmetic products disproportionately used by Black women. Additionally, incentives for safer, non-toxic, and/ or biodegradable braiding hair alternatives must be established. There are already braiding hair alternatives on the market consumers should be aware of: Rebundle, Ruka, Dosso Beauty, and Nourie to name a few.

At our Beauty Justice Conference on April 21, 2025, we tackled these urgent issues head-on. It was more than a conversation—it was  a movement toward safer products, corporate accountability, and legislative action.

Our beauty should empower us, not endanger us.  

Time for action, accountability, and change.

References: 

Crown ACT: https://www.thecrownact.com/

Relaxer Lawsuits: https://www.sokolovelaw.com/product-liability/chemical-hair-straightener/hair-relaxers/

Kanekalon Hair: https://www.kanekalon-hair.com/en/about

Consumer Report: https://www.consumerreports.org/health/wigs-hair-extensions/dangerous-chemicals-detected-in-braiding-hair-cr-tested-a4850978424/

Chrystal Thomas’s paper: https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10238826/

EDPs and Asthma-associated chemicals: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29705122/

Beauty Justice Conference: April 21st https://www.eventbrite.com/e/beauty-justice-conference-tickets-1095702970079

SB 236: https://legiscan.com/CA/text/SB236/id/3090139

Braiding Hair Alternatives: https://www.byrdie.com/braiding-hair-brands-11706102